Trip Reports IICarene Lydia -- Thursday, July 27, 2017 -- 07:24:32 PM
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Guadalajara: Day Four 19 June 2018
More avocado toast, this time for breakfast. Believe it or not, I have never had avocado toast and I am beginning to think that I have been missing out. meli also gave me on pitaya of each color – they do not have a lot of flavor but the magenta and orange definitely have a stronger flavor than the red or white. (Pitaya are not to be confused with pitahaya – dragon fruit – but they are also cactus fruit.) meli said the pitayas are supposed to be good for your cholesterol and the seeds have omega-3. meli also made hot chocolate with chocolate from the ranch.
The plan was to get tortas ahogadas at the best place in Guadalajara for those sandwiches. This is the signature sandwich of Guadalajara and if you do not have one, then you have not been to Guadalajara. Unfortunately, they were closed on Tuesdays and we never made it back, so apparently I have not been to Guadalajara. This is a pocket park in a city that I have never been to.
We walked to the Museo de las Artes de Universidad de Guadalajara.
We took a cab home and had a little time to rest before we left for food court, where meli does yoga upstairs. While she was yoga-ing, I walked around a bit and then went to Rendez-vous – Café de las Artes across the street. I brought the median age of the crowd up by about 30-40 years. I did not realize the patio was smoking until after I sat down but it was okay. I was sitting under a tree, enjoying my sangria, and watching the horse and carriages and horseless carriages go by.
After yoga, we went to the wine bar in the food court, bought a bottle of wine and sat inside and talked and drank and talked and drank. We walked home and stopped for tacos at a small restaurant near meli’s. I think I had beef and tongue and something else I cannot remember and horchata. All were very good.
Guadalajara: Day Five 20 June 2018
Tianguis! Anyone who follows meli on Facebook, sees her Wednesday posts when we get thrill over seeing all the wonderful food she bought at the tianguis (open air market). A few of the vendors sell produce from their own farms but most of the vendors buy from the wholesale market. They are in a different neighborhood every day and in meli’s neighborhood, Wednesday is tianguis day. Just a short walk from her house is several blocks of all kinds of fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, cheeses, eggs, butter, chili peppers, and some clothing and jewelry.
For lunch we had some of the ready-made tamales de elote (corn) we purchased at the tianguis along with cotilla cheese (just on mine) also purchased there and avocados. We also got string cheese and a cheese with habanero peppers for me.
The water guy was shouting “agua” and meli bought a new bottle from him. He carts around water cooler size bottles of water and you give him your empty and purchase a new full bottle.
Later we walked to yoga but stopped along the way for ice cream. This time I had mamey (a tropical fruit) and it was delicious. I cannot describe the taste – it tastes like mamey.
To our surprise, the US Consulate was sporting rainbow colors for Pride Month.
The food court has a cooking school.
I waited for meli in Mercado México. You can order food from several different restaurants in the food court. I got the agave y moras (mezcal with macerated berries and limón and the skin from agave leaves) and a burger sampler (cheese, bbq with cheddar, brie, and guacamole). Most of the restaurants in Guadalajara do not have table settings. Instead either on the table or given to you when you sit down is a small bucket or tin cup with silverware and napkins. And there are always several bottles of hot sauce. (When I was tasting cheeses at the tianguis, the vendor always put the cheese on a piece of bread and the put a drop of hot sauce on it before he gave it to me.)
This tasted as good as it looks.
meli joined me after yoga. She ordered some food and then we went inside the food court to listen to the jazz trio, the Tom Kessler Trio. We drank wine and talked and listened to the music.
There was an electric guitarist, an acoustic guitar that was acting as the bass, and a drummer. The drummer was brilliant – he made himself heard over the amped guitars, yet he was quiet and never overwhelmed them.
I bought churros for the walk home.
Guadalajara: Day Six 21 June 2018
We got up early on Thursday because we were taking a road trip to Teuchitlán, which is the town next to Guachimontones, where the nearest pyramids are.
It had rained the night before (as it had every night), so meli thought it would be a good idea to take a later bus so that the land would not be muddy. We went to the old bus station to get the bus to Teuchitlán. The trip would be a couple of hours.
The bus dropped us off in Teuchitlán and we walked around the town. It was like any small town I would see in Puerto Rico or Managua. Stray dogs running around, roosters crowing, and men riding horses through the streets. There was a plaza with the church and a municipal building across from it. But the big church was up a hill. We did see a policeman with his automatic rifle (they all carried one). And in Guadalajara, we saw a truck go by with the police pointing their rifles out. But I only saw that once.
We took a taxi to Guachimontones, which I am glad we did. Walking there plus the walk up to the pyramids would have killed me.
A timeline as you walk to the museum.
The view from the museum.
A mural when you walk in.
And a map on the floor. Guadalajara is in the far left corner. Guachimontones and Teuchitlán are mid-right. You are looking north to south.
meli explained to me how this is a recent excavation. No one thought there were civilizations this far north in Mexico. The people had died out (conquered by other indigenous people before the Europeans arrived) and in the arid climate the fibers had disintegrated. An American, Phil Weigand, believed that a civilization had lived there. And archeologists are still digging in the area.
The people were named for the nearby town, since no one what they called themselves.
What a burial looks like. There are dogs to help lead you to the afterlife.
Representations of what the area looked like.
And more gorgeous views. No camera can capture the beauty of the views from the museum or from the pyramids.
Panels that you could open and close to see how the pyramids were built.
Their representation of a dance.
A ball court. Later we would see an actual court.
Courts from different regions. Similar but different. meli said a variation of the game is still played today – you hit the ball with your hip.
The volcanoes gave them many types of obsidian.
Then we walked to a reproduction of a home.
Then the walk up to the pyramids. I am out of shape, so I was out of breath and had to take some breaks. And luckily, the ball court is on the way up, so you get to stop and check that out and catch your breath.
And finally you see the La Iguana. You cannot climb on that pyramid but you can climb on to the smaller platforms around it.
meli and I sat for a bit. It was very quiet – very few people. But there was someone playing a pennywhistle nearby. If you look carefully, you can see him on top of this very large pyramid, El Gran Guachi.
We walked downhill to back to Teuchitlán.
We stopped at a small store for shaved ice, which was made like piragua (shaving the ice off a large block). I had the guanabana. Wall with broken glass bottles as security measures fascinated me.
There was poetry written on walls throughout the town.
We went up to the big church. A funeral was taking place. We got there just as the mass was ending and a truck pulled out carrying all the flowers. The hearse followed with what looked like half the town walking behind. A mariachi band also played and followed the hearse. Later we saw black draping at the municipal building, so someone important must have died.
Hipsters are everywhere. Even in small towns in Mexico.
The bus came right away and we were making good time until we got just outside of Guadalajara proper. A heavy storm came through, streets were flooded, and traffic stopped. We were not going to make our reservation at Alcalde, especially since we both needed to shower before we went out to eat. We went to another restaurant that meli likes and where there is another owner who she knows - Pal Real. This restaurant came the closest to be a hipster restaurant. It started in a garage and then was built out. The floor is from MoMA.You are handed a book for the menu (in either Spanish or English). I had a Ni muy muy Ni tan tan white wine and tongue with corn flour dough in pesto, fresh cheese, and chichilo (the least known of the seven types of moles in Oaxaca). Despite the strength of the mole, you could still taste some of the earthiness of the tongue and they were a good pairing. I would say if you had never had tongue or even if you did not like it, that the mole would cover up the taste enough that you would not even know you what the protein was. Another excellent choice of restaurant.
We could not go to Alcalde on Saturday night because meli had planned for us to go to her friend Oscar’s restaurant. And we decided at the last minute to go to Puerto Vallarta on Friday and spend the night, so that meant there were other sites that I would be missing. Travel to other small towns and more exploration of the historic district in Guadalajara including the church and a folk art museum that meli had not been to yet.
Guadalajara/Puerto Vallarta: Day Seven 22 June 2018
meli was able to find us a hotel on the beach at Puerto Vallarta. It is off-season but the price still was incredible – only MXN$100 for the night. meli made breakfast – quesadillas with squash blossoms.
On the way to the bus station we went down Avenida Chapultepec, where the Niños Héroes Monument to the six teenage military cadets who died defending Mexico City’s military academy from the US during the Mexican-American War. There are also statues of the cadets. Currently the monument is covered with the names of the 43 disappeared college students in 2014.
We went to the new bus station for the five-hour bus ride through the mountains to the coast. The buses are better than first class on a plane. Lots of legroom, huge comfortable seats, and a TV to watch movies or listen to music. The buses were double-decker and our seats were on top for a great view. You get your choice of soda or water and a Krispy Kreme donut for the trip. On the return trip we got a sandwich. meli also brought cut up fresh pineapple and jicama and I brought the string cheese. Even though I did not get to go on a mezcal tour, I did see plenty of agave farms, especially when we got near Tequila. When the highway ends the bus either goes south to Puerto Vallarta or north to Mazatlán. Going southwest we were on small winding mountain roads that went through a few small towns. I saw a man wearing a straw hat and walking along a dirt road with his machete – a scene that would not be out of place in Puerto Rico. I also saw a big lumber truck on its side in a ditch off the side of the road – luckily the mountain side.
It was a 30-minute taxi ride to the Hotel Emperador, which may have seen better days but there is a lovely view of the beach and the malecón from the terrace, there were two beds in our suite plus a trundle bed, and a kitchenette. And like all the hotels on the beach, there is a restaurant attached to it. The hotel is at one end of the malecón and after we checked in, I went into the water for a bit and then we walked the length of the malecón.
Vendors walk along the malecón and there is artwork – statues and art on the sidewalk. Opposite the beach are loud bars and restaurants and souvenir shops full of tourists. And we saw Los Voladores de Papantla spinning around a pole. On our first walk we saw them when they were almost done. On the walk back to the hotel we caught the entire show and watched them quickly spin down the pole.
In some spots there is barely any beach and there is just rocks. There is a river that runs into the ocean underneath the malecón.
Our dinner that night was at El Arrayán, which was uphill a few blocks from the beach, and is another restaurant where meli knows the owner. There is an arrayán tree in the middle of the open courtyard in the center of the restaurant. On one side is the bar and the kitchen and on the other side of the courtyard are the tables. It is another comfortable inviting place to eat. There was a large table near us of Americans. meli and I were trying to figure out the relationships. There were two older adults (Married? Brother and sister?) and each seemed to be the parent of only some of the teenage/early 20s children. Was it a blended family? Did an aunt and uncle take some nieces and nephews along on their trip with their family?
I had their signature margarita made with arrayán fruit. I had another drink also but do not remember what it was. I ordered the duck tostadas (shredded pickled duck, sesame corn crispy tostada, black beans, lettuce, tomato, avocado and crema), shrimp red pozole (dried pepper-shrimp stock, hominy corn, fresh shrimp), and salad (lettuce, tomato, basil, cucumber, olives, panela cheese, oregano-mustard dressing). The waitress said that was too much food and suggested that I get half a pozole. She was correct – it was a lot of food. The portions were big and the food was delicious. Yet I still had room for dessert – a goat milk flan. You could taste the goat milk, which made for an interesting twist.
On the way back to the hotel I heard a man singing and playing on acoustic guitar “En mi viejo San Juan” on one of the side streets. I had always been told that the song (from the 1940s) was popular throughout Latin America despite it being a lament about missing Puerto Rico and here was proof.
Puerto Vallarta/Guadalajara Day Eight: 23 June 2018
My final full day in Mexico. When I got out of bed I heard meli yell, “Hey!” from the terrace. Some of our upstairs neighbors were throwing bread for the pigeons, who were then swarming around the terrace. meli had also captured a photo of the orange cat I had seen walk across the roof the night before (our terrace abutted against the restaurant roof) and we were hoping the cat would show up to chase away the pigeons, which he eventually did. We saw some people throwing a fishing net off the malecón and immediately come up with fish.
Mexico was playing in the World Cup that morning and the beach vendors were lined up in front of the restaurants watching the game. While we were in the water we heard cheers for the first goal of the game. You could hear the cheering up and down the beach – there was a slight delay as the sound would get to us. The second goal was scored when I was sitting on the terrace while meli showered. So we missed all three of Mexico’s goals but heard the cheering in the streets.
The water was warm, not very salty, very calm. meli floated and I watched the pelicans hang onto boats. Several of them swarmed one fishing boat when the fisherman was cutting bait. He would occasionally throw out some bait to them. While in the water I could feel fish bumping up against me but could not see them.
There were hotel lounge chairs on the beach and we dried off and went back to the room to shower, change, and check out. We could have ordered drinks or food from the restaurant if we had wanted to.
We decided on seafood and looked for a restaurant on the beach. I do not know if all the restaurants are the same quality but Cuates y Cuetes was a good choice on our parts. There was a musician playing acoustic guitar and singing. The service was excellent. And the vendors come to your table but leave as soon as you say you are not interested. They sold everything – hairbraiding, souvenirs, clothing, shrimp on a stick, plates of oysters, and drinks. meli did stop the masseuse and got a foot massage. I watched the cranes and seagulls. The waiter went to grab something at a one of the empty tables. I thought it was a mouse but as he was turning the towel to show me I saw it was a small bat and covered my eyes until he went away. We shared guacamole and chips and salsa and meli had a ceviche and I had a shrimp and octopus salad.
It was a fast cab ride to the bus station. The driver showed us a photo of his wife on his phone and a video of the proposal. This was not spontaneous but came out of the conversation that meli was having with him. [meli's edit: "The taxista showing me his proposal video came out of the blue, as far as I was concerned. I had just been to Vallarta for the hotel project, and a couple of the employees that I interviewed maintained that it is a town with very defined class differences. I wanted to know if that was an impression held by others, so I had asked was he from Vallarta, blablabla. we we're talking about earning a living, high season/low season, cruise ship tourism, the cost of food, that sort of thing. He said he was married, and that they wanted kids, but wanted to have a house first. Then he brought out the video of him in full firefighter gear (he was a firefighter at some point, I think, though that was rather unclear), proposing to his wife in front of the fire engine named in honor of her father, who had been the fire captain. He had died, so the taxista hadn't been able to ask formally to marry his daughter, but proposing in front of the rest of the company and the engine was like having his approval. I think that he pulls out that video to show anyone he can under whatever pretext!"]
The bus was full but there were two seats left but not next to each other. We crossed the river that separates Puerto Vallarta from Nuevo Vallarta. And then it was back through the same small towns. I did not get any photos of them but there was lots of flamboyant trees (a symbol of Puerto Rico) on the side of the road. We did get off one stop before Guadalajara – Zapopan (meli said that now I had seen all three bus stations) – because the taxi ride would be the same length and it would be less time on the bus.
Iggy Pop on the jazz station.
I got very excited for a minute and then realized it was the wrong Lucero.
We showered and changed and went to Xokol. Oscar Segundo is indigenous and uses the corn from his own farm to create the dishes. It was long cab ride to the restaurant and meli was thrilled to find out that the restaurant was moving to her neighborhood. Also, Oscar will be doing pop-ups in several cities in the US and I cannot wait to bring people to his place when he is in NYC in September.
His wife Xrysw was making tortillas when we arrived. They nixtamalize their corn and make their own masa and supply tortillas to other restaurants. In addition to Xokol, there is a monthly pop-up, which is less casual. Xokol is tiny – a couple of long tables and benches and what looks more kitchenette than kitchen. A portable grill, plancha, portable sink, and refrigerator. The food was so fresh and so delicious and I could not eat it all and felt terrible about it. meli and I talked about how when the food is fresh good ingredients, you fill up quickly. I can easily eat 15-20 White Castle burgers but just a few bites of Oscar’s food and I was full. We had tortillas with salsa and then tortillas with avocado and cilantro. I had soup with bone marrow – I dug out the bone marrow from the bone but the broth itself was earthy enough. There was corn in the soup. I also had a tortilla filled with cheese and covered with nopales, avocado, and pickled onions. And also a tortilla covered in beans and sausage meat. We drank atole (warm cornmeal drink) and a fermented drink that you can only get there. [meli's edit: "The corn dish isn't considered a soup here; it's a street snack called esquites. It's corn off the cob, either roasted on a comal with epazote and chiles, or cooked in water with epazote and chiles, then served in the broth. It's become popular recently to add things like the bone marrow to the brothy esquites."]
At home we had a nightcap of mezcal and more talk.
The thunderstorm woke me at about 5am on Sunday (day nine). meli made me avocado toast with tomato for breakfast and I lost track of time and had to run upstairs to close my suitcase (not any easy job) when the cab showed up to take me to the airport. The trip home was uneventful. Mexico City is huge (saw it from the plane) and then the flight from MEX to JFK was smooth but we could not get to our gate for an hour, which made people antsy.
A+++++ would visit meli anytime and would visit Guadalajara and Mexico again.
Where oh where do you get the energy! I have been just sitting in (my too hot) house reading about your trip and a bit of Mexican history you had links to, salivating over food descriptions, checking out all the photos, admiring the views ---and not even moving an inch--- and I feel like I need a foot and neck massage, another bottle of water; and a rest.
Of course it's always wonderful to visit friends, but this trip and visit sounds superlative.I'm glad the photos included you and meli.
Thank you, thank you. Love all the details!
Phoenix – Day One and Two: 3-4 November 2018
I arrived late on Saturday night because JetBlue only had one direct flight from NYC to PHX (and one direct flight out) and I was not spending eight or more hours flying and making stops. My sister Denise picked me up from the airport. She is renting a nice three-bedroom house and lives with her three dogs, Tally, Waldo, and Nona, and her three cats, Mama, Pumpkinhead, and Magica. Waldo was the first dog she rescued in Puerto Rico and it happened when we were still taking care of my mother. I had put him in the carrier to bring him to the house and we bonded a little before I left for NYC. I was surprised that he remembered me (I have not seen him since October 2014) and he has been underfoot and sleeping with me since I arrived.
I had brought Denise a chicken cutlet parmigiana hero from her favorite restaurant and found out that she is now a vegetarian. But she ate it and enjoyed it. Next time I will have to bring an eggplant parmigiana hero instead.
The address of the house is 1313 and Denise told me that she found rocks in the backyard arranged in patterns and stuff under the rocks. Turns out a Voodoo priestess lived here before her. Denise has taken some of the stuff from under the rocks for herself (for her crafts that she sells) and I think that is a bad idea karma-wise. The woman before the priestess died in the house. But Denise said the house has been good luck for them, so whatever.
View on Denise’s street:
Denise had to work on Sunday (she cleans homes and AirBnBs for a service but is going to open her own business soon), so we drove to Scottsdale, where the AirBnB was. It is supposed to be a four-person crew but the others usually flake off and Denise is left to clean the houses alone. That is why she was made supervisor almost immediately after being hired. She only has four hours since the old guests check out at 11am and the new guests check in at 3pm. When we got there at about 11am, there were four families, all with small children, saying goodbye. So we walked around for a bit.
It was 11:20am and they were all still outside saying goodbye, so we started unloading the cleaning supplies from her jeep to give them the hint. Which, thankfully, they took. One guy said to one couple, “See you next week,” which made me wonder why they were taking so long to say goodbye.
The AirBnB was beautiful – four bedrooms with a master bedroom, bath, and closet that would be an extremely expensive NYC studio by itself. The bathroom had two sinks but on separate walls – no side-by-side sinks. The rain shower had a door on one side that opened to the outside to an outdoor shower. There was a pool and outside deck with a TV. The loft had an impossible to climb ladder – it was bolted straight onto the wall instead of slanted – so that you had to have major arm muscles to climb up.
I sat with my feet in the pool and read for a bit and then watched TV. At the end I helped Denise make the beds and fold the beach towels that she had washed.
People who rent AirBnBs go food shopping. And leave the food at the house. So Denise has a very full refrigerator from all the food and drinks left at these homes. This group had had a birthday party and there were three quarts of ice cream – chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. Since we could not take that home, I ate some of the ice cream. You know, you do not want to waste food. There were also chicken wraps and a veggie plate, which I ate some of and we brought the rest of the chicken wraps home for the dogs.
From there we drove back to Phoenix to have dinner at the Barrio Cafe, which two Facebook friends who live in or near Phoenix had recommended. But before that we had to stop at the local Goodwill. This was a Phoenix Goodwill that Denise had not been to yet and she was interested to see what they had. The neighborhood was obviously Latino/Mexican with a hint of gentrification happening. Denise shops Goodwill regularly to get items to resell or for her crafts. She also shops at a Nordstrom’s outlet at which she has a $500 Missoni dress that she bought for $17 and an almost $2000 Dolce and Gabbana dress that she got for a similar very very very low price. She going to resell both.
Outside and next to the Barrio Café are murals.
Along the wall are paintings for sale. They brought out bread and a light salsa, which were delicious. I ordered a Flor de Jamaica Margarita (Siete Lenguas Tequila, Hibiscus flower reduction, and Grand Marnier) because I was remembering the Jamaica Margarita I had had in Guadalajara. This one did not compare favorably to the other. Denise liked her Chata (Agua de Horchata, Crema 1921 Tequila, and Kahlua). Later I ordered a Barrio Bomba (Patron Silver Tequila, Cointreau, orange, pineapple, and fresh lime juices, and grenadine), which should have read Tequila Sunrise to me based on the ingredients but it did not register in the moment. It had a sugar rim. Both drinks seemed lacking in alcohol to me and really great flavor based on the ingredients.
We started with esquites, which were not broth-like as what I had in Guadalajara but a bowl of butter roasted corn kernels topped with chipotle cream, aged cotija cheese, cilantro, and fresh lime juice. Denise and I both loved them. I had the Cochinita Pibil (pork marinated in achiote and sour orange, wrapped in a banana leaf and slow roasted overnight and served topped with pickled red onion and Yucatán-style pico de gallo), which was the recommendation of my friends and a specialty of the house. It was served with zucchini and spicy mashed potatoes. You can also have that pork served as tacos or a torta. Denise had a stuffed poblano that I do not see on the current menu – I know it was either vegan (cannot remember if it had cheese) or vegetarian but it looks like it was similar to the Chiles en Nogada on their posted menu. Both of us loved our entrées and could not finish the meals. We did have room for dessert and we shared a Flan de mi Mami, which was a traditional flan topped with candied pecans.
Phoenix: Day Three: 5 November 2018
Denise had the day off, so we got up early and started on our way to Sedona. It is almost two hours out of Phoenix but a scenic drive. I have never been to this part of the country before. It reminded me of the bus trips I took in Mexico in June and sometimes reminded me of Puerto Rico (PR is obviously not desert country but it is very mountainous).
And then you get a glimpse that you are getting near to Sedona and then you are there.
Along the way we some animals that had been hit by cars. Denise does not like to see that. There was an intact raccoon on the bike lane and she made a U-turn to get him off the highway. She wore rubber gloves and used two plastic bags on top of that and when I tell you the stink off those gloves when she came back in the car – it was overwhelming. She threw them out as soon as she could.
Getting into the first town.
We wanted to stop at the place to walk around Bell Rock because it is one of the Sedona vortexes but the lot was full. And so was the next one. And the next one. It looked like we were never going to be able to get out of the car and walk around. I wanted red dust on my sneakers and to rub my fingers in it!
We went up to the airport where the Airport Mesa vortex is and passed two lots. One was very big and charged $3. We passed both to go to the Mesa Grill at the airport because Denise was hungry. There is a nice view. I had looked up restaurants in Sedona and had found the Cowboy Club, which serves “high desert cuisine” and looked like fun in addition to the sometimes unusual menu. We did not realize it but had we turned right instead of left on Airport Road we would have been there and could have lunch there. As it turned out we did not have time to look for the restaurant later in the day and when I looked it up the next day I saw how close we had been. Next time.
I had the chicken chorizo quesadilla (leeks, sweet corn, jalapeño, roasted red peppers sour cream, roasted tomato salsa, and guacamole) and they had fried the tortillas, so it made for an unusual dish but okay. Denise had a black bean burger that she raved about.
We drove over to the first lot but it was now full. So it was on to the $3 lot. Denise had a conversation with the guy watching the lot and taking the money. It is a busy season now, which is why all the small scenic view lots are full. He said it is wall-to-wall people during the other busy seasons. Across the street is a scenic view. Then on the side with the lot, you walk down a small path, make a right and open a gate (they fence off the area so that the animals do not get onto the airport runway – there are bears, raccoons, javalinas, and coyotes). The path is extremely rocky but you have a wonderful view of the town and the mountains. The trail leads to the Airport Mesa but we did walk the entire way. I am old and fat and not a hiker.
Driving out we stopped near one of the scenic views near Bell Rock and I got out and rubbed red dust on my sneakers and put my fingers in the dust. The lots were still full, so Denise waited in the car.
On the road back out we stopped at a Goodwill so Denise could see what a Sedona Goodwill had. Even the view from the mall is beautiful.
We then stopped at Tlaquepaque, which is a shopping mall with high-end shops and galleries. It was constructed in the 1970s to look like a beautiful Spanish Colonial village with the open courtyards. They kept the sycamore trees that were already there and built around them and you can see them growing through floors up through the ceilings and walls of some of the shops. The tiles, grillwork, carved doors, lanterns, clay pots, and benches were imported from Mexico.
Denise and I wandered around and found ourselves delighted with the place despite it being a shopping destination. I ended up buying several gifts/souvenirs for friends there. And I met Mark Twain (and rtb says our handshake is creepy).
Further down the road is the anti-Tlaquepaque, Son Silver West, which calls itself a gallery but it is so much more. It is several buildings and courtyards and filled with jewelry, handmade ladders, cords of wood, Asian art, African art, Mexican art, art made from found materials, walls of crosses, courtyard of tin flowers, pottery, long and short strings of chiles, and old things that you display. There was a bench with a vortex sign that was called the #1 vortex in Sedona. I sat there but did not feel anything spiritual. But I also got some gifts there.
Then it was back on the road to Phoenix and to the Crescent Ballroom, where Lucero was performing that evening. The area is part financial district and part hipsterville. Denise had a quesadilla (Tillamook cheddar and Oaxaca cheese) and I had a Sonoran Dog (hot dog wrapped in peppered bacon and topped with mayo, refried beans, onions, jalapeños, mustard, and diced tomatoes and served on a toasted bun). I got guacamole and sour cream on the side and put that on top also. I was told it was one of the things to have if you are in Phoenix. It was very good although difficult to get your mouth around.
(Deleted message originally posted by Carene Lydia on Thursday, November 08, 2018 -- 10:33:21 PM.)
Phoenix – Day Four: 6 November 2018
There are several interesting sounding museums in Phoenix. Denise had suggested that I go to Old Town Scottsdale (she had to work) and I looked up what was in the area and saw the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art was in that area and the two exhibitions sounded very appealing to me. The write-up for the museum trip is Art and on my blog.
I got lost in the beauty and spirituality of NKame: A Retrospective of Cuban Printmaker Belkis Ayón (1967-1999) and lost track of time. As I’ve mentioned, I have an ancient smartphone and cannot get any apps on it. Which is fine except when you are in a city without good public transportation and need a Lyft. I was able to get the Lyft via my computer to go to Scottsdale but now I had no way of getting back. And I was supposed to meet Kate Carmichael for drinks in Phoenix. I thought I would be able to pull up Lyft on the phone browser but no go. I called Denise in the hope that she could arrange a Lyft ride on her phone and she said she would be done in 45 minutes and since she was in Scottsdale, she could pick me up. So, I walked around for a bit.
Behind the museum is an outdoor mall with lots of restaurants. Beyond that was the Scottsdale Historical Museum (unfortunately closed) that used to be a schoolhouse. Across from that were statues of a couple I am assuming are the city founders, US Army Chaplin Winifield Scott and his wife Helen.
Old Town Scottsdale is basically a shopping mall made to look like a frontier Western town. Lots of bars, restaurants, and art galleries.
I was headed back to meet Denise when I ran across a gelato shop Gelato Cimmino. I got a chocolate for myself and coconut for Denise. She raved about hers and I thought mine was also delicious.
Siri decided to take us on a very scenic route to the highway. Denise said we basically made a circle around town. However, we got to see a section of Scottsdale that she was unfamiliar with and it was the ritzy rich section. Beautiful homes – some set inside mountains – and gorgeous estates. It was a very nice drive. But it made me even later and I had to tell Kate that I would be at least 45 minutes late. We decided to cancel because she had to do other things but promised to meet up the next time I am in Phoenix.
After changing and feeding the pets, Denise and I headed to The Gladly, where Kate and I were going to have drinks and one of the restaurants she had recommended to me.
The Gladly is a very nice space. We sat at the bar because I preferred a more casual dining experience. I had the Thai Margarita (Silver Tequila, lime, tamarind reduction, basil leaf, Thai chili sea salt on the rim, and served on the rocks). It was delicious. Denise had a Kahlua and cream.
We ordered three appetizers and a side. The Chicken Liver Pâté was all mine (pistachio in the pâté and served with sage mustard, pickled onions, capers, and small slices of crusty bread) but I put it on three slices of bread, which we gave to the dogs. We shared the Noble Bread Plate (lemon-thyme butter, sea salt, spiced Castelvetrano olives), Roasted Brussels Sprouts (served over sweet corn grits with shaved Pecorino Romano cheese and truffle oil), and the side was Ricotta Risotto. I was not so sure about that but Denise wanted it. Denise took a bite of risotto and she said it was too salty. I took a scoop (under the scoop she had taken from the top) and found it to be fine and I always find restaurant food to be too salty. I tried some of hers and it tasted like someone went to put salt on the food and the top had fallen off the salt shaker. It was just in the one section she had spooned up – the rest of it was fine. I do not know what happened in the kitchen but they should have made up a new bowl when whatever happened happened. I noticed the bread plate was missing sea salt (unless it was already on the bread?) and thought maybe that had spilled into the risotto. Who knows? We should have sent it back but did not.
Other than that, the meal was most excellent. The pâté was perfect and I loved the olives served with the bread. The bread was big slices with a hard crust and soft center and I really liked the lemon-thyme butter. The Brussels sprouts were cooked very well also as were the grits. And the portions for the appetizers were big. Had I known the portion size was so big we might have not ordered the side or one of the appetizers. It was more than enough for us to share.
Phoenix: Day Five: 7 November 2018
I spent most of the day inside while Denise went to work. Later I took the bus to the Musical Instrument Museum to see a concert and Denise met me there. My adventure to the museum and the concert are in Concerts and my blog.
Phoenix: Day Six: 8 November 2018
I was leaving for NYC late that evening and Denise had to work. My plan was to spend the day in the house, pack, and then go to the rally at the Capitol at 5pm. Denise would pick up my luggage and come and get me and we grab something to eat and go to the airport. But she finished early and would be back at the house just before 5pm. So I skipped the rally (because there will be lots of others), packed, said goodbye to all the animals, and we drove to Cave Creek. Cave Creek is another tourist town with lots of “Wild West” attractions and shops. Since it was dark I could not see much of it but it looked like it could be fun in the non-tourist season.
Earlier in my trip, Denise had mentioned Buffalo Chip Saloon as an Arizona-type of place. They have bull riding and I was surprised that she would suggest that, knowing her love for animals. I found out that she did not know that the make the bull buck, they irritate him. Turned out the bull riding was on Wednesday and Friday nights, so we could not fit it in the schedule for this trip. I suggested we have dinner there. We ate at the bar and I had a smoked pork sandwich with sides of biscuits and beans. I really liked the sandwich and biscuits. Beans, not so much.
The place is huge and kind of outside and inside at the same time. Besides the bull riding, they have mechanical bulls, and also mutton riding for kids.
We were watching the pedal steel player tune and the drummer dusting off his drums. The live music started at 8pm, which was too late for us but they have free dance lessons every night at 7pm. We saw several women sitting in chairs lined up against the wall of the dance floor. And some cowboys talking with them. Then I noticed a woman with a head-mic and then she was telling people to get a partner.
Then it was off to the airport. Ride was uneventful and I watched a movie (Don’t Worry, He Won’t Get Far on Foot) (I saw Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again on the flight there) and slept.